When I've sent a climb before or achieved a big goal, sometimes I've cried, but it wasn't like this," she said. Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is an American rockclimber and coach. Margo Hayes Year Born: 1998 First climbed: Age 10 Climbing regularly since: Age 10 On ABC since: 2008 Height (as of June 2012): 5’3” Ape Index (as of June 2012): 5’3” Favorite Outdoor Areas: Colorado areas Red River Gorge, Kentucky Rodellar, Spain Hueco Tanks, Texas Favorite Route: The Force 13a Red River Gorge, Kentucky Favorite… Raboutou’s time of 9.57 seconds proved that she is among the fastest of the non-speed specialists and a legitimate threat in all three disciplines. Margo Hayes recently climbed Biographie (5.15a / 9a+), quite likely the hardest sport route ever done by a woman. Hayes still visits her hometown gymnastics center, CATS Gym, to train on the trampoline, doing flips and getting in what she calls her "upside down" time to improve upon her aerial awareness. It was pretty intense to belay! Saved by Harrison Ballard. Margo Hayes is a perpetual motion machine. Because of all this, Shiraishi has to be viewed as one of America’s biggest hopefuls heading into the Olympic qualifying season. Over two weekends in Rifle last summer, the 17-year-old comp climber from Boulder flashed Cryptic Egyptian (5.13c); redpointed Double Rainbow (5.14a) and Zulu (5.14a) in the same day, then […] Although, it doesn't hurt to be the first to achieve it. On February 26, 2017, Margo Hayes, 19, became the first woman to successfully climb La Rambla in Siurana, Spain. But since the Olympics and its qualification events will be conducted in the combined format as well, 18-year-old Galla is the American male competitor with the most Olympic potential at this point. Winning the 2018 Battle for the Fort competition at Colorado’s Ascent Studio last December in dominant fashion, topping three out of four total boulders in a stacked field that also included Galla, Ethan Pringle, Ben Hanna, and other bouldering powerhouses. Margo Hayes is on fire. Ruana, also an alumnus of the Vertical World Climbing Team, has been something of a quiet crusher in major competitions over the past several years. Beating national record holder Piper Kelly in the penultimate heat of the speed portion at the Combined Invitational. She is the quintessential all-arounder, consistently making finals in all three disciplines. MARGO HAYES WINS THE NORTH FACE YOUNG GUN AWARD. One arm pull up—no jump and no kip!!”). Shiraishi also flashed three boulders in the ensuing semi-final round and three in finals. Today, she shares with us the gear she packs when heading out for a typical day at the crag. La Rambla in Siurana, Spain, is a stunning natural wonder, an almost impossibly steep cliff that looks insurmountable. He has been one of the few American mainstays on the World Cup circuit for years, placing fourth at a lead event in Villars, Switzerland, in 2016, fifth at a lead event in Briançon, France, in 2017, and second place at a bouldering World Cup in Vail, Colorado, in 2018, among other high finishes. "After reading and watching a lot of documentaries on the disappearance of the bees and colony collapse disorder, I definitely want to do my part and try to help out in that," she said. USA Climbing is the national governing body of the sport of competition climbing in the United States. Climbing Girl Rock Climbing Alex Puccio Different Sports The Mountains Are Calling Extreme Sports Mountaineering Climbers Go Outside. Ruana always musters enough grit to keep himself in the hunt for a victory at every competition, so it’s not hard to imagine him getting on a hot streak and winning big under the IFSC stage lights this spring. Tabei was a mountaineer rather than a climber and was the first woman to reach the summit of Everest in 1975. March 2020. Life goal completed!! In the past year, non-climbing media outlets have run myriad profiles of her; effusive praise from the press has ranged from how Hayes is “revolutionizing rock climbing” to how she is “shattering gender barriers.” That’s a lot of pressure to put on the shoulders of a 21-year-old—and a lot of hype for Hayes to live up to. The 20-year-old rock climber was the first woman to climb a 5.15a grade route (on La Rambla in Catalonia, Spain) in February of last year — and she’s already repeated that feat this past September with an ascent of Biographie/Realization. She also grew up—quite literally—on Team ABC, the competition climbing squad founded by her parents. "I was a big daredevil and didn't have a lot of fear," she said. Luckily for her, the combined format means that earning high marks for bouldering and sport could compensate for her languid speed times. With La Rambla (9a+) and Biographie within a few months, the 19-year-old has taken the world of climbing by storm. As a child, she trained as a gymnast and earned the nickname "Thumper" after the rabbit in "Bambi," for the boot she was constantly wearing from her injuries. She earned second place at the Combined Invitational; if the chips had fallen a little differently there—if Condie had slipped ever-so-slightly on one of those aforementioned crux moves—it would have been Raboutou standing highest atop the podium, and she would be the competitor heading into the IFSC season with the most gravitas. Erbesfield-Raboutou even podiumed at an international competition in the 1990s called the Pre-Olympics. Which she did, clipping the chains with her right hand. Sticking the triple clutch dyno across a burly set of overhanging red scoops on the final boulder of Bouldering Nationals; the live crowd practically blew the roof off Oregon’s Deschutes County Fairgrounds at the acrobatic display of power. All you can do is try your hardest and get yourself in the right mindset, and hopefully the magic happens. In terms of her potential to perform well at the Olympic level, her biggest victory to date was the 2019 Combined Invitational. The Qualification roundon Friday morning and afternoon saw a steady stream of competitors—54 women and 76 men—try their hands at five problems, for which they had five minutes each. In the past few years, she has become a face of The North Face, a star of Reel Rock films, and she has been credited with breaking the glass ceiling for … Most other competitors chose instead to attempt a risky dyno—and nearly all failed to land it. For instance, he won the 2017 Youth Sport Nationals, and more recently tied Gregor Vezonik for first place in the finals of last November’s Bayou City Classic at Momentum Silver Street in Texas. An unending slab of beige and gray, the edges of which can slice through the most calloused of fingers along the way. Hong and climber Jon Cardwell initially invited Hayes on a trip in Spain. When Hayes was 10 years old, a local coach recruited her into climbing; she fell in love with the sport, committing to it full time by age 13. While that event had other big storylines—such as Brosler setting a new American speed record, and 15-year-old Colin Duffy hanging with an older and more experienced field—it was first and foremost a breaking out party for Galla. So it is fitting that her daughter, Brooke, has assumed the mantle and continues the Olympic journey for the family. "I go in with a clean slate. Margo Hayes, a member of USA Climbing's 2019 Overall National Team, competes in bouldering semi-finals at the 2018 IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. When you’re in a competition you have that … The 5-foot-6 climber credits this mental toughness to her consistently positive outlook on life and her physical strength to a lifetime of being active. Natalia and John replaced Brooke Raboutou and Zach Galla. That’s likely not the groundwork that someone as historically successful and ferociously competitive as Coleman wanted to lay heading into the maelstrom of Olympic qualification. As a 501(c)3 non-profit, they promote three competition disciplines; bouldering, sport climbing, and speed climbing.. USA Climbing receives sanctioning and is recognized by the following organizations. (“So stoked!!! Though she'd prefer not to share the specifics of her next goals, she would love to compete in the Olympics someday. As this 2019 season progressed, he encountered a few hiccups—taking second place (barely) to Galla at the Combined Invitational, and taking second place (barely) to Sean Bailey in this year’s Bouldering Nationals, and failing to make finals at this year’s Sport Nationals. March 20 2019 "We build on what other people achieved in the past.". But no matter the backdrop, Hayes goes into each challenge with a mindset that's partly cultivated by a regular meditation practice. The 2016 IFSC Youth World Championships are in full swing in Guangzhou, China, and the U.S. climbers Ashima Shiraishi, Margo Hayes and Kai Lightner have landed spots on the podium in the lead climbing division. Many of the current U.S. top climbers—Ashima Shiraishi, Natalia Grossman, Colin Duffy, Alex Johnson, Drew Ruana, Sean Bailey, Margo Hayes, Brooke Raboutou, the list goes on—all started training and competing Nationally at or before age 10. Hayes had been studying French in Aix en Provence in the south of France, only a short plane ride away, but had been thinking about sending La Rambla for a year already. In her previous attempts, she had fallen repeatedly at the top crux, the most difficult part of the route. At the beginning of 2017, Margo Hayes sent La Rambla (9a+/5.15a), becoming the first woman to successfully climb at the grade. She's in the process of getting her first beehive. Outside, she has now climbed more than 15 routes of grade 5.14a or harder. 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Margo Hayes's 2019 Sport Nationals win—and more recently her strong 13th place at the recent lead World Cup competition in Briançon, France —have returned the … While in France -- where she is studying to become fluent in the French language -- she takes advantage of local climbing gyms and outdoor spots introduced to her by mentor and climber Arnaud Petit. Ashima Shiraishi set herself apart early by finishing all four problems—the only woman to do so. If there is any area of pause in analyzing Shiraishi’s nearly flawless resume, it comes in her speed prowess. With a grade of 5.15a on the Yosemite Decimal System, it is considered one of the most difficult sport climbs in the world, and had, until this past February, been conquered by only male climbers. I think this was her strongest asset, aside from being super fit: her ability to keep it together and stay focused," Cardwell wrote in an email. On the men’s side, two lesser-kno… A self-described "quirky" person with a variety of interests, Hayes is also keeping busy with her latest endeavor: raising bees. For Michaela, GOS comes in as her second 5.14 and on her blog she reflects, “This climb meant a lot to me because it is not my style at all. That tenacity and success, combined with her social media relatability, makes Condie perhaps the single most compelling American in climbing’s emerging Olympic age. But climbing is also in her blood: her grandfather was a mountaineer. It was a showcase of incredible climbing. While a great part of the CrossFit community celebrates strong women, society at large still has reservations when it comes to accepting muscle and strength as properties that belong both in men and women. Margo Hayes posted on Instagram after sending her third 9a+ View this post on Instagram I am fortunate to be in Oliana during the spring equinox and full moon, especially with a human so dear to my heart. The current teams are a small shift from the original teams which started the World Cup season. Posted on July 8, 2013 Updated on July 22, 2013. Best of all, she has been measurably improving, which she demonstrated by making her first IFSC Bouldering World Cup final at Tai'an, China, in 2018. We are proud to announce that Team ABC Member Margo Hayes was awarded the North Face Young Gun award at the SCS Nationals this past weekend in Atlanta. The new four-member female team is Ashima Shiraishi, Kyra Condie, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman. America's Margo Hayes won the Wild Country Rock Award, while Slovenia's Janja Garnbret won the La Sportiva Competition Award.The other nominees were Adam Ondra, Stefano Ghisolfi, Domen Škofic and … How did you feel trying a big route right before leaving the country? And the fact that most of the upcoming World Cup competitions—as well as most of the Olympic qualifiers—will be contested abroad should not be downplayed. "He would set up a top rope, and we would top rope something really easy, like a 5.5 [grade]," she said. Although she has been bettering her run times, she still often struggles to make the final rounds in speed heats. Some of the most decorated American competitors barely missed out on a team spot, and it’s hard not to feel sympathetic for them. It got the crowd psyched early, but specifically for Ruana, it hinted at a steady, stellar showing that culminated in a spot on the podium (third place). Condie needed to finish in the top three at the sport portion of the Combined Invitational to win the entire competition. One arm pull up—no jump and no kip!!”). Topping all five boulders—three of which were flashes—in the qualification round of Bouldering Nationals. He is also a product of coach Tyson Schoene’s Vertical World Climbing Team, a squad widely recognized as the first gym-based team in the United States. Bailey did not win this year’s Combined Invitational or the Sport Nationals, but he nonetheless enters the upcoming IFSC World Cup season with the single most valuable intangible asset: experience. If bouldering is indeed not Shiraishi’s main discipline, she has done a poor job of showing it. Jun 13, 2019 - Margo Hayes doesn’t always climb outdoors, but when she does, it tends to catch the attention of those who wonder just who this quiet crusher is. And, upon signing a USA Climbing Code of Conduct pledge that includes interesting tidbits like an 11:00 pm curfew at competitions and 48-hour alcohol abstinence prior to a training camp (for competitors of legal drinking age), members of the Overall Team are provided team apparel that includes a duffel bag and uniforms from The North Face (jersey, pants, jacket, t-shirt, sweatshirt, beanie, shorts, and hat). Instead, she had been focused on the USA Climbing Bouldering Youth Nationals in Salt Lake City earlier in the month, where she placed first in dominant fashion. As a member of Team ABC in Boulder, Margo won SCS Youth Nationals in 2011 and with this send ticked off her first 5.14. Life goal completed!! Brooke Raboutou fought her way to sixth in speed, the trickiest discipline for most lead and bouldering competition climbers. Margo Hayes, a member of USA Climbing's 2019 Overall National Team, competes in bouldering semi-finals at the 2018 IFSC World Championships in Innsbruck, Austria. There's always support from the community, from friends, coaches," she said. But one experience doesn't depend on the other," she said. When she did, Cardwell watched from the ground as Hayes made her crucial final moves when, he said, the psychological toll can often overwhelm the physical one. The International Federation for Sport Climbing (IFSC) That is, when she isn't pushing the boundaries of young women in climbing. I am grateful to be back on Spanish lime stone, which suits my style in … Margo Hayes and Sean Bailey were crowned the 2016 sport climbing national champions this weekend at Central Rock in Boston, Massachusetts. We met with Margo before the Youth World Championships and talked to her about climbing La Rambla, the media, and why we climb. Sticking that crux move was a large factor in Hayes winning the comp and securing her spot on the Overall National Team. © 2020 Pocket Outdoor Media Inc. All Rights Reserved. In 2017, at the age of 19, Margo became the first woman to climb 5.1a, a grade only around 60 men in the world have climbed. "My heart was racing as she made the final moves on the route. "I started bawling my eyes out, which I didn't expect. Bailey is already well-accustomed to the rigors of traveling, preparing, and performing well in foreign countries. Grinding through three tense speed heats and winning the bouldering portion of the Combined Invitational—which positioned him to win the entire competition without even having to make progress on the wall in the Sport portion. They will also be fully covered for airfare, hotel accommodations, and food at most of the upcoming World Cup events. That puts Bailey and any success he has at the Olympic level in a unique historical context. Setting the tone at the Bouldering Nationals by landing a blind leap around an arête on the opening boulder in the qualification round—a move that Kai Lightner had also just stuck. But less well-known is that her mother, Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, was touted as the main American hopeful when sport climbing made its first big push for Olympic inclusion decades ago. He has also experienced his fair-share of victories, however. The two women Margo Hayes and Paige Claassen made the first and second female ascent of the Kryptonite route (8c + / 9a) at Fortress of Solitude. Hayes has proved her deftness at both indoor and outdoor climbs, recently placing second at the USA Climbing Sport & Speed Open National Championships in Denver. And despite such history and heritage, Brooke Raboutou is a modern competition climber in every sense. And she is quick to credit her recent successes to the support she feels from the entire climbing community. Over the course of Raboutou’s competition career, much has been made of the fact that both of her parents are former champions. The bouldering and speed competitions are still to come over the next few days. Margo Hayes, native to Boulder, Colorado, thrives on both the thrill of competition and the serenity of climbing in nature. The solidifying of an Overall Team was a drama-filled process that came down to the wire. The USA Climbing document says that athletes on the team will be covered for expenses at: USA Climbing will also cover the expenses for these remaining World Cup events if they are able to secure funding: Here’s a closer look at the eight competitors on the 2019 Overall Team roster. (“So stoked!!! In doing so the American has made the first female ascent of this mega climb freed by Chris Sharma in 2001. "I was feeling that joy, but it's important to not let it take over your body until you've finished, until that rope is in that anchor, and I can say, 'Take,'" said the Boulder, Colorado, native. The USA Climbing Sport and Speed Open National Championships took place March 18 and 19. Over the weekend 15-year-old Margo Hayes and 18-year-old Michaela Kiersch both sent God’s Own Stone (8b+/5.14a) at Red River Gorge. Earlier this year, Margo Hayes became the first woman to successfully climb a 5.15a -- the highest difficulty level in rock climbing -- at La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain. (She placed 53, for example, in the speed qualification round at the combined portion of the World Championships in 2018). So right before Margo Hayes, 19, clipped her chains at the top to become the first woman to send (rock-climbing's term for successfully climbing a route) La Rambla, she was rocked by emotions. Her training, she said, largely depends on her environment. The new four-member male team is Nathaniel Coleman, Sean Bailey, John Brosler, and Drew Ruana. recap of the recent Sport and Speed Nationals, IFSC World Cup: Meiringen, SUI (Bouldering), IFSC World Cup: Chongqing, CHN (Bouldering, Speed), IFSC World Cup: Wujiang, CHN (Bouldering, Speed), IFSC World Cup: Villars, SUI (Bouldering), IFSC World Cup: Chamonix, FRA (Lead, Speed), IFSC Combined WCH: Location TBD (If qualified), IFSC World Cup: Moscow, RUS (Bouldering, Speed, IFSC World Cup: Xiamen, CHN (Lead, Speed). But it’s wise to look at this year’s woes as exceptions and anomalies to prowess that has otherwise proved to be unduplicated. Each competition, each climb is an individual thing, and I think you can learn from each. Of course, she has also found success at the highest level of sport climbing, including winning a national championship in 2017 and placing second at a lead World Cup event that year in Xiamen, China. Later, it would also be written on her bloodied, chalked and calloused hands and in her fatigued back muscles. And neither John Brosler nor Piper Kelly, although dominant in the speed discipline, received hallowed spots on the squad. Margo Hayes Competition. This New Book Presents the Powerful Account of Female Strength Throughout History. Not only did she accomplish that mission, but she bested the seven other finalists in the sport portion to claim a decisive victory. I knew I had to get my camera ready because it was such a big moment, so I made her wait up there a few seconds longer before lowering her," Hong, who sent La Rambla earlier, wrote in an email. Throughout a season that included the National Cup Series as well as Bouldering Nationals and Sport and Speed Nationals, competitors accrued points relative to their placement in the standings—with the top eight scorers over the course of the season ultimately making the cut. She is known for being the first woman to climb a route graded 9a+ (5.15a) (La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain). I'll never forget that moment.". My plate is always colorful," she said. She actually wasn't training specifically for La Rambla before she sent it. When she's at home in Boulder, she balances time in a climbing gym with body-weight strength exercises and running 2 to 5 miles at a time for endurance. La Sportiva North America The climbing route Kryptonite was from Tommy Caldwell First started in 1999 and is considered the first 9a route in North America. "A big achievement isn't something you do alone. In February 2017, Margo Hayes became the first woman to climb a 5.15a with La Rambla in Siurana, Spain—this September, she followed up with the first female redpoint of Realization, Chris Sharma’s benchmark 5.15a in Céüse, France. Nothing excites her more than clipping the chains on a route overlooking her own backyard. It was touched on in the recap of the recent Sport and Speed Nationals, but it’s worth reiterating: Something just would not have felt right if Hayes had not made the cut for the US National Team. Feb 25, 2019 - Explore Jessica Cairns's board "margo hayes" on Pinterest. Hayes is already a mainstay (deservedly so) in the mainstream media due to her outdoor achievements, but can you imagine the stratospheric coverage and revelry she’d garner if she was competing for an Olympic medal? Nationality: Japanese Year of birth: 1939. Other achievements include winning Grand Champion Beef Carcass at Royal Brisbane show twice, Silver Medal at Royal Sydney Show for her branded beef product and a finalist in the Delicious Produce Awards,. The dyno was not only the highlight of the competition, but arguably the highlight of the entire 2018-2019 USA Climbing season. See more ideas about Rock climbing, Margo, Bouldering. Condie’s success over the past couple of years has been a joy to watch, perhaps because she has been so open on social media about the ups and downs of competing; she has been honest about struggling with the “mental game” at events, and also engaging with enthusiastic Instagram posts about training accomplishments. Galla had been buried in the middle of the pack at the previous year’s national championships (fifth place at 2018 Bouldering Nationals; sixth place at 2018 Sport Nationals); few pundits likely imagined he’d be the winner of the country’s first major combined event. "Margo, however, handled it very well and with a ton of confidence. For example, on a very aerial finals boulder, Condie repeatedly stuck crux moves—such as a big dyno—that shut down other elite competitors. Buried in the Olympic hype and ESPN production of the recent USA Climbing competitions was that the events systematically fashioned and configured a US Overall National Team. Although Margo enjoys traveling to new destinations, for her, there is no place like home. Q&A with Margo Hayes . FAQ; Security alerts; Contact; Newsletter; Downloads I was lucky to grow up in Colorado and watch them pave the way in competition and outdoor climbing. He has not received the widespread recognition that standing atop the highest podium garners, but his consistency has been unwavering: third-place at 2018 Bouldering Nationals; second place at 2018 Sport Nationals, third place at 2019 Bouldering Nationals; sixth place at 2019 Sport Nationals. Wisely opting for a toe-hook and a static reach to a faraway sloper midway up the finals route at Sport Nationals. An in-depth look at the eight competitors who will represent the United States in the upcoming season of international events. Coleman entered the 2019 season with a legendary resume; he had not just won the previous three Bouldering Nationals, he had done so without falling in the finals of the 2017 and 2018 events. A part of Team Petzl since 2016, this elite climber has a penchant for sport climbing at cliffs both near and far. She is a 4 time World Cup champion, the 3rd woman to climb 5.14a and has coached young competition climbers, like Megan Mascarenas, Margo Hayes and her daughter, Brooke Raboutou.
2020 margo hayes competition